Now that the first seven posts have cover some of the basic elements, it is time to try to tie them together into a basic framework. After about two years as a point and aim shooter, I had hand surgery and could not shoot for 6 weeks. It was at that time I watched Miss Kitty and copied the locked elbow draw from her.
The Form: As Howard Hill stressed, form is crucial to being an accurate shooter. We align the shooting foot pointed toward the target. The off foot is slightly back and positioned where ever comfortable. Hips and shoulders are square with the target. Shooting foot and specifically the toe of the foot will control the right /left alignment. The gun is rolled out of the holster with the thumb cocking the gun with a backward motion. The backward motion is complete when the elbow is locked. Prior to the advent of Rule 17 this would or might result in the muzzle being behind the front lip of the holster. Because of Rule 17 we must now use an anchor point that is more forward. The anchor point should be against the hip just above the holster. Your anchor point should result in the muzzle being at the front lip or slightly forward of the front lip of the holster. When the gun reaches the anchor point the trigger is pulled.
I note a lot of good shooter will do a mock draw with a loaded gun. I never draw unless I also pull the trigger. To me to do so would cause a hesitation between the draw and firing of the gun. I just don't do it.
There is no forward motion in this draw. There is no flail in this draw. For those coming from other draws that have forward motion, eliminating the forward motion seems to be the most difficult thing to do.
The Start: If you are going to learn this draw, you must commit to it and never go back. Even if you have to do it in slow motion, learn it and never go back. I can think one shooter that has a perfect locked elbow draw when he is dry firing, but when he is on the target he flails or does a follow through. He has a 3.5 dry fire at 80% and 4.5 draw on the light at 40%.
You can not mix and match and be good. YOU MUST COMMIT TO THE LOCKED ELBOW COMPLETELY.
The Subconscious: After the start, after you have learned the basic draw you must commit it to the subconscious. This moves the draw from the frontal lobe of the brain back into the subconscious. You do this by doing it over and over again. I recommend short work at 5 feet so that you are also chunking data at the same time. I recommend 50 rounds at least three times a week. You are finalizing your draw. You are done when you have no memory of what you have done when you draw. Just like you have no memory of the breath that you take, you have no memory of the draw.
Deliberate Practice Framework: To me a good framework would be bucket work close up three days a week; dry fire practice on three of the other days, with maybe one or two days of light work or competitive shooting each week. Bar-E suggests 25 chunking and 25 on the plate each day. Sounds good to me. Whatever works for you as long as it is deliberate practice that finalizes your draw. To flail 50 down range in an attempt to be fast accomplishes little other than to learn how to miss quickly.
The Dilemma: Presently I am a 240/160/30 shooter for a .43, i.e reaction/draw/flight. I should be a 160/150/30 for .34. Looking at photos from Oklahoma, I note that my anchor point is 3 inches high. If I lower the anchor point, I am sure I will cut off some milliseconds from my draw time, maybe 10 or so. The dilemma is do I do it now or wait until after the season is over. If I revamp my draw I must relearn it and re-finalize it. "Any thinking transforms the expert into a novice!"
That is the why to constantly be changing your draw restricts your ability to progress. You must at some point finalize your draw to be competitive. To make changes in your draw moves the draw back from the primitive automatic area of the brain back to the frontal lobe. If you think about it, you are slow. If you think about it, you are inaccurate.
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